A wonderful feature by our friend Sally Shalam!
Devon and Cornwall
“I always think heart-warming food is the truest antidote to the tail end of winter. Especially when chefs appear, like a beacon, just when you need them most. Take Philip Burgess, chef-patron of a little gem called The Dartmoor Inn in Devon (doubles from £90), which has one of the finest breakfasts you will find in the country. (Where else can you expect hake fillet with streaky bacon, or escalope of beef with fried egg?) The location is sublime, with the wildness of Dartmoor on the doorstep and pretty moorland towns such as Chagford and Moretonhampstead nearby. I have just discovered that Burgess also pops up across the moor in Cornwall, cooking for private bashes at Pentillie Castle, on the banks of the River Tamar (exclusive hire for 20 from £2,645 per night). When you read this, he’ll be recovering from all the shooting parties. If pork cheek, freshwater crayfish and star-anise sauce, slow-cooked oxtail with root vegetables, red onions and Madeira glaze, and chocolate and pecan praline tart with crème-fraîche sorbet float your boat, you know where to book for next season.”
This feature was first published in Condé Nast Traveller March 2015